FDM Printing Profiles

The war machines represent machines 9-15 meters tall. At 1:285 scale a 12-meter machine should be about 42mm tall, but the actual range varies a lot. The publisher's modern sculpts run closer to 1:265 (slightly larger than true ratio), while older metal miniatures are smaller and closer to the original math. The scale is a family, not a single number.

The reliable approach is to pick one official miniature as your reference and match its height. I keep a single reference machine on the bench and measure every printed proxy against it. Consistency within a lance matters more than hitting a strict 1:285 ratio — the game is hex-based and scale-perfect models are the least of your worries.

The machines are small but dense with detail — cockpit glass, weapon barrels, and antennas all need to read. I print the machines at 0.2mm nozzle and 0.04-0.06mm layers, and print terrain and hex tiles with a 0.4mm nozzle. Magnetizing bases makes transport easier, since small models shift around in a case.

These are the validated reference steps I use when a printed model spans the small-scale ranges. They rarely apply to war machines directly — your reference miniature is the better guide.

• Scaling a Light and an Assault to the same height. Weight class differences are real and add to the game's readability.
• Scaling to strict 1:285 math. You will undersize modern sculpts — match the range instead.
• FDM on cockpits and antennas. At 6mm those details need a 0.2mm nozzle, or they come out as blobs.

This game is 8mm scale (1:200), matching the older epic Titan range. Individual armoured soldiers are tiny but recognizable, and massed formations of hundreds of models fit on a single table. It is the publisher's return to epic-scale warfare, set during an epic civil war.

The scale is designed so a Titan miniature is roughly the same physical size as a 28mm infantry model. That size contrast between the tiny soldier line and the looming Titans is the whole point of the game — do not scale a Titan up "so it feels big." Also, the two epic games share the scale but not the base sizes, so keep the bases straight when you print replacements.

At 8mm, infantry is beyond what FDM can reliably produce — the minis come out as blobs. Vehicles and Titans are larger and more forgiving, and FDM handles them fine. I print the machines at 0.2mm nozzle and 0.04mm layers. For painting at this size, contrast paints and washes beat layer-by-layer highlighting every time.

• FDM on the infantry. 8mm soldiers come out as blobs — print the vehicles and Titans instead.
• Scaling Titans up for drama. The scale contrast is the design. Leave the numbers alone.
• Confusing the two epic ranges' bases. Same scale, different base sizes — print to the right one for the game you play.

This game is 10mm scale (1:160). Individual infantry are barely larger than a grain of rice, so the game's visual impact comes from vehicle mass and formation density rather than individual detail. The publisher's range is consistent within itself, which makes cross-faction mixing straightforward.

FDM genuinely struggles with 10mm infantry — the bodies, weapons, and details are too fine. I skip printing the infantry and focus on the vehicles. They are the stars of this game, and they print well on FDM at 0.06mm layers with a 0.4mm nozzle.

These are the validated reference steps I use when a printed model spans the small-scale ranges — useful sanity checks when a file lands between conventions.

At 10mm, cohesion wins over detail. I give each faction a single base color and batch-paint the infantry in one pass, then use washes for shading. Magnetizing vehicle bases keeps the force easy to transport.

• FDM on infantry. At 10mm it is a waste of filament — stick to official infantry.
• Mixing 10mm with 15mm WWII models. They are close enough to feel wrong together and different enough to notice.
• Over-detailing single models. The table reads as formations. Spend time on the vehicles, not one soldier.

At 15mm (1:100), the miniatures are small enough to field dozens of vehicles and hundreds of infantry on a single table. The eye level works out to about 16mm on my 175cm baseline. One distinction I always check: a strict 1:100 ratio gives 17.5mm to the top of the head, while "15mm" usually means eye level — the two look similar on paper but are not identical.

Use these when you want a tank or soldier upscaled into a 28mm game — the jump is large, so check the proportions after scaling.

The validated step from 1:100 up to the 1:35 model-kit lane is 285.7%. It is a huge jump — more for display and diorama work than for tabletop play, where the 15mm size is the point.

15mm miniatures reward batch printing — you need entire platoons. I print infantry at 0.2mm nozzle and 0.06mm layers, and vehicles at 0.08mm. Magnetizing vehicle bases helps with transport. At this scale, basing has a proportionally huge visual impact, so flocking and static grass do more work than your print settings.

• Treating "15mm" and "1:100" as identical. They are close but not the same — confirm which convention your STL uses before converting.
• FDM infantry at this scale. The rifles and webbing are too fine — keep it to vehicles and terrain.
• Mixing in 20mm (1:72) ranges. They read noticeably larger next to 15mm. Keep a platoon in one scale.

The publisher designed this classic range at 28mm heroic scale to match the original classic fantasy battle line. That means decades of classic metal miniatures, older sculpts, and freshly printed proxies all sit together in the same ranked units without looking off.

This is smaller than the modern fantasy wargame's 32mm. Mixing the two ranges on one table produces a visible size difference — which is exactly why you need to know which lane your STL was designed in.

When I pull a modern fantasy STL into a classic 28mm army, I convert it down to the 28mm lane. The reverse is just as common — classic fantasy STLs scaled up for a 32mm collection:

Classic fantasy armies are built from ranked blocks, so your printing strategy is volume first:

1. Print infantry blocks at 0.4mm nozzle and 0.08mm layers. Twenty models at high detail beats five models at perfect detail.
2. Batch by height. Rank-and-file troops are close enough in height that one build plate layout works for the whole unit.
3. Print movement trays separately. They take a fraction of the time and glue onto printed bases cleanly.
4. Reserve the 0.2mm nozzle for unit champions and characters. That is where your detail budget belongs.

The validated steps out of 28mm cover the common side projects: 125.0% brings a classic fantasy model up to the 35mm mass-battle and superhero lane, and 178.6% scales it into the 1:35 model-kit world for display or terrain work.

• Printing 32mm modern fantasy STLs at full size into a 28mm army. They will read as oversized next to the classic range — bring them down at 87.5%.
• Measuring helmeted troopers to the top of the head. Eye level is the reference. Pick it with the measurement tool, not the bounding box.
• Mixing 25mm metal and 32mm plastic in one ranked unit. Keep each unit internally consistent and the classic look holds together.

Older metal miniatures from the original mythic fantasy range measure closer to 25mm, while the newer plastic releases are 28mm. Both are legal in the same army, and the community has accepted the size difference as part of the range's history. Smaller races and goblin-type creatures are intentionally smaller than Men — that is proportion, not inconsistency.

That means your anchor is whatever generation dominates your collection, not a universal number.

If your force is mostly modern plastic, anchor at 28mm. If it is mostly classic metal, you will end up closer to 25mm in practice. The validated 28mm lane references that bracket the modern heroic side are still my sanity check:

This range uses realistic proportions, not heroic exaggeration — heads and hands are smaller than a modern heroic model of the same height. When I print a replacement for a named character, faces matter because they carry the character's identity. I run a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.06mm layers and put supports on the back and undersides so nothing touches the face.

The metal range is thinner than the plastics, so a printed replacement often looks right without adding bulk. Compare the torso width, not just the height, when you are deciding whether a proxy matches.

Two validated steps are useful for side projects: 178.6% takes a 28mm model into the 1:35 model-kit lane for vehicles and terrain displays, and 267.9% pushes a favourite hero all the way to display scale for the cabinet.

• Scaling to 32mm by accident. A 114.3% up-scale is right for matching modern heroic (32mm), not for matching a collection anchored at 28mm.
• Trusting a "25mm" label on a modern proxy. Check the eye level in the slicer against the metal miniature you are replacing.
• Skipping facial detail on named characters. This is the one range where recognisable faces carry the game.

WWII platoon infantry are 28mm true scale, measured to the eyes (160cm on a 175cm human baseline). This is the same convention used by older classic sci-fi sculpts, classic fantasy RPG miniatures, and most historical wargaming ranges.

The vehicle scale for this game is 1:56. This ratio means that 1 millimetre on the model equals 56 millimetres in real life. A 3-metre-tall Sherman tank should measure approximately 53.5mm on the tabletop.

The 1:56 vehicle scale is paired with 28mm infantry because both use the same reference point. A 175cm human in 1:56 scale is approximately 31.25mm tall to the top of the head, which puts the eye level at about 28mm. The math lines up.

Most vehicle STL files are designed for 1:35 scale (traditional model kits). Here is how to convert them:

• Printing vehicles at 100% when they are designed for 1:35. A 1:35 tank printed at full size will be nearly twice as long as it should be next to your 28mm infantry. Always check the STL description for the intended scale.
• Scaling infantry by total height instead of eye level. A model with a raised arm or tall helmet will have a misleading bounding box. Measure from the foot contact point to the eyes, use that as your reference dimension.
• Using 100% infill on vehicles. Most WWII platoon vehicles are hollow in the real kit. For 3D prints, use 15-20% grid infill. It saves filament and the model will still be durable enough for regular handling.

A Medium creature in the classic fantasy RPG is roughly equivalent to a 28mm true scale miniature. If you print a human fighter STL that is labelled "32mm," it will look slightly larger than the published miniature for the line — not enough to be jarring, but noticeable if they stand next to each other.

RPG miniatures have a lot of small detail: faces, weapons, cloaks, and accessories. Here are the FDM settings I use:

If you find an STL for a Medium creature but want it as a Large-sized monster for a custom encounter:

• Print multiple miniatures at once by arranging them on the build plate with at least 5mm of spacing between each model.
• Use the same layer height for all models in the batch. Switching between 0.06mm and 0.1mm per model wastes time on filament changes and recalibration.
• Print bases separately. Flat circular bases print in minutes and you can glue the miniatures on after removing supports.

• Printing a dragon at 100% when it was designed for 28mm scale. A dragon STL labelled "for 28mm" is already the correct size for a Medium-scale game. If you want an Ancient dragon that towers over the party, scale it to 200-400%.
• Using a 0.4mm nozzle for tiny creatures. A goblin's face at 0.2mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle will lack definition. Swap to a 0.2mm nozzle for anything Small or smaller.
• Scaling by bounding box. A dragon with outstretched wings will have a huge bounding box that does not reflect its body size. Measure from foot to eye, ignore the wing span.

These models are nominally 28mm but measure closer to 29-30mm in practice thanks to scale creep across the range. The proportions are the bigger tell: leaner, more realistic than heroic 28mm, with smaller heads and hands relative to the body. Two ranges can share a "28mm" label and look nothing alike on the table.

The reliable way is the caliper. I measure the eye level of a reference metal miniature from the publisher, then check my printed proxy against that number — not against the "28mm" printed on the file page. Most third-party proxies are sculpted slim and land close to the range as-is; if anything, I scale up a touch rather than down. The validated 114.3% step (28mm → 32mm) overshoots the range's real-world 29-30mm, so treat this as its own lane and verify with a measurement.

These models are famous for thin rifle barrels, flowing hair, and delicate equipment — all of it a struggle on FDM. Use a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.04-0.06mm layers and attach supports to undersides and backs so nothing touches the hair or the weapon.

• Scaling to the 28mm label instead of the actual model. Measure eye level against a reference mini before slicing.
• FDM on thin weapons and hair. They break and soften at this scale. Use a 0.2mm nozzle and plan the orientation.
• Mixing with heroic 28mm ranges. The bulk difference reads immediately. Keep the army in the slim lane.

The official miniatures for the fantasy game are 28mm true scale, but the game is explicitly miniature-agnostic — any 28mm or 32mm miniatures work. The sci-fi version leans toward 28mm sci-fi but accepts the same range. That flexibility makes both games a natural fit for a 3D printed collection.

The only real rule is internal consistency. Pick 28mm or 32mm for a warband and hold it across every model in the group. The validated step between the lanes is:

This is one of the best games for 3D printing experimentation. I print warbands in batches at 0.4mm nozzle and 0.08mm layers for playability, and save the 0.2mm nozzle at 0.06mm for wizards and named characters. Terrain is half the game — frozen ruins for the fantasy version, sci-fi corridors for the sci-fi one — and it prints great on FDM at 0.1mm layers.

If you want to pull in a 35mm miniature as a guest star, the validated step up from the 28mm lane is 125.0%. That lands the model in the 35mm lane alongside them rather than trying to squeeze a bigger sculpt down to your warband's scale.

• Mixing 25mm metals with 32mm STLs in one warband. Each warband should look like it came from the same place — pick one lane and stick to it.
• Spending hours on a rank-and-file thug. Playability models read fine at 0.08mm layers. Reserve the fine detail for wizards and captains.
• Skipping terrain. These are terrain games. The board sells the theme more than any single model.

This game uses standard 28mm fantasy scale. The publisher's own miniatures run slightly smaller than heroic 28mm, but the difference is minimal on the table. Because the game uses regiment-based movement, the unit footprint matters more than the exact height of any single model — a fact that takes a lot of pressure off your slicing.

You need entire regiments, not single characters. I print infantry in large batches at 0.4mm nozzle and 0.1mm layers for speed, and treat the movement trays as printable pieces — the publisher's trays clone cleanly. Rank-and-file troops are viewed from several feet away, so the quality bar is lower than any skirmish game.

Most fantasy STLs are 32mm heroic. Bring those down at 87.5% to keep a ranked regiment consistent with the publisher's slightly-slimmer 28mm look.

Unit champions and characters are where the detail budget belongs. I print those at 0.2mm nozzle and 0.06mm layers so they read as individuals in the block. Everything else is production work.

• Obsessing over individual scale inside a ranked block. Footprint and base size carry the unit. Height differences of a model or two vanish at table distance.
• Solid infill on rank-and-file. Grid infill saves filament and the models are strong enough for handling — you are printing dozens of them.
• Fine layers on everyone. Running a whole regiment at 0.06mm is a waste of hours when the unit reads the same at 0.1mm.

The game was originally marketed as 28mm and reclassified to 30mm later in its life. The miniatures use chunky heroic proportions — exaggerated weapons and armor, beefy silhouettes. Both labels are accepted in the community, and the range's own models span the bracket depending on when they were sculpted.

Most STL files are labeled either "28mm heroic" or "32mm heroic." The game's 30mm sits between the two. In practice I treat it as 28mm heroic when I print proxies, then verify with the caliper against a reference war machine or infantry model. If a file runs big or small, I adjust by a touch and re-measure — the label is a starting point, not the answer.

There is no validated "30mm" conversion in the matrix, so the two validated references that bracket the lane are the ones I use:

Scaling a proxy all the way to strict 32mm usually overshoots a real army — that step is the top of the bracket, not the middle.

The bulky mechanical designs are forgiving on FDM — flat armor panels hide layer lines, and the war machines are big enough that I run a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.1mm layers for the machines. Heavy infantry and characters get a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.06mm. The metal originals are heavy, so printed alternatives are noticeably lighter and easier to transport.

• Forcing a 30mm army to strict 32mm scale. Your proxies will read oversized next to the range — stay in the 28mm heroic lane.
• Measuring to the top of a war machine's cab. Eye level is the reference even on machines; the cab is usually a raised detail, not the scale point.
• FDM on heavy-troop trim. The heavy troops have a lot of small trim that FDM softens first.

The publisher uses two distinct scales depending on the range:

• Modern heroic (32mm) / newer sculpts: 32mm heroic scale, measured to the eyes (160cm on a 175cm baseline)
• Classic true-scale (28mm) / older sculpts: 28mm true scale, also measured to the eyes

A modern heroic soldier is roughly 14% taller than a classic true-scale soldier. This is not scale creep — it is intentional. The newer range was designed with truer human proportions, which means longer legs and a taller frame.

Most 32mm sci-fi epic STL files you find online are designed for 32mm heroic scale. Here is how to handle them on an FDM printer:

1. Check the sculptor's baseline. If the description says "32mm scale" or "heroic 32mm," you can print it as-is for a modern heroic army.
2. Measure eye level in your slicer. Import the STL, use the measurement tool, and check the distance from the bottom of the foot to the eyes. If it is not 32mm (or close), scale it.
3. Set your layer height to 0.08mm. This is the sweet spot for 32mm heroic miniatures on FDM. Detail is good enough for tabletop distance, and print time stays reasonable.
4. Use a 0.2mm nozzle for faces. If you have one, swap to a 0.2mm nozzle for character models. The difference in facial detail is significant.

32mm sci-fi epic vehicles use a different scaling convention. An armoured transport chassis is designed to look correct next to 32mm modern heroic models. If you are printing a vehicle STL labelled "for 28mm," scale it up to 114.3% to match your modern heroic force.

For larger vehicles like super-heavy tanks or Titans, scale by comparison to a known reference model rather than using a formula. Vehicle proportions vary too much between sculptors for a universal percentage.

Every modern fantasy release is 32mm heroic scale, measured to the eyes — the same convention as the modern heroic (32mm) sci-fi standard. Older classic fantasy battle miniatures are 28mm heroic. Both ranges still share tables in the modern fantasy game, and the size gap is part of the range's history.

If your force is mostly new plastic, treat 32mm as your anchor and scale any older 28mm fantasy STLs up at 114.3%. If you are printing a classic regimental army to sit next to older-era sculpts, you usually want to keep it at 32mm to hold the line — an undersized rank reads instantly across the table.

The reverse matters too. A modern fantasy STL dropped into a classic 28mm collection will tower over the old metal heroes; bring it down at 87.5% if you want it to blend in.

Big centerpiece monsters are where this scale really shows. If a dragon or daemon STL is designed for a smaller lane and you want it to dominate the board, the validated steps up from the 32mm lane are what I reach for: 234.4% takes a 32mm hero into full display territory, and 109.4% steps it up to the 35mm mass-battle and superhero lane for a slightly larger presence next to those scales.

• Printing 28mm fantasy STLs at full size in a 32mm army. If the sculptor says "28mm," you need the 114.3% step to sit level with modern plastic.
• Running a 0.4mm nozzle on character faces. The heroes carry most of their personality in the face and helmet trim — swap to a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.06mm layers.
• Measuring to the top of a helmet. Scale is set by eye level. A tall helmet or hair tuft will give you a misleading bounding box — measure foot to eyes in the slicer.

These miniatures are 32mm heroic scale, compatible in size with the modern heroic (32mm) sci-fi and fantasy standards. The artistic style is more exaggerated — larger heads and more expressive faces designed to carry a character's personality across the table. Since the latest edition relaunch the range is produced in high-quality plastic.

The range is known for expressive faces and intricate clothing detail. I use a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.06mm layers for the best results on character models — the fine detail on accessories and weapons is exactly what FDM softens first, so those thin layers matter. The latest plastic range is also well suited to kitbashing with printed alternative parts.

If you want a model to stand in the 35mm mass-battle or superhero lane, the validated step is 109.4% (32mm → 35mm). For a display piece in the cabinet, 234.4% takes the same model to 75mm territory.

• Buying "28mm heroic" proxies and printing them at full size. They will sit short next to official 32mm sculpts — use the 114.3% step.
• Running a 0.4mm nozzle on faces. The whole identity is in the expressions. Use a 0.2mm nozzle.
• Assuming "32mm" on a label means 32mm eye level. Measure it in the slicer — third-party "32mm heroic" files vary.

This game is miniature-agnostic by design — it works with whatever you own. The 32mm recommendation aligns with the modern heroic standards and the majority of 3D printed STL files, but a 28mm classic collection works just as well. What the rules actually care about is base sizes, not model heights.

Commit to one lane for the whole army. The only real scale mistake in this game is switching mid-force.

The game's unit categories are keyed to base sizes — infantry, heavy infantry, cavalry, and so on. The game is forgiving about visual consistency precisely because the bases do the rules work. Print your models to fit the correct base category and the army plays correctly even if the sculpts vary.

Since there are no official models to match, print whatever you want. I use a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.06mm layers for characters and a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.1mm for rank-and-file. PLA with high fan from the first few layers gives clean overhangs on capes and weapon barrels.

• Mixing 28mm and 32mm mid-army. The rules do not care, but the table will look inconsistent. Pick one lane.
• Ignoring the base size chart. It drives the rules — a proxy on the wrong base category changes how it plays.
• Over-investing in rank-and-file detail. Across-the-table models read fine at 0.1mm. Spend detail on heroes and monsters.

Every miniature in this game is 32mm scale, matching the modern heroic standards. The range mixes pre-assembled PVC minis (starter sets) with multi-part resin kits. Creature models like mutated beasts are significantly larger physically, but they hold the same scale as the human characters.

The post-apocalyptic theme is a gift for FDM printers. Rust, grime, scratches, and radiation damage are thematically correct — they hide layer lines naturally. I lean into weathering on everything and it looks intentional rather than like a print artifact.

I print characters at 0.2mm nozzle and 0.06mm layers, and heavy armour suits at 0.08mm with a 0.4mm nozzle — the big flat panels hide the layers well. Terrain, which is a major part of the game, prints great on FDM at 0.1mm layers.

• Printing "28mm scale" STLs at full size next to official 32mm models. Use the 114.3% step to sit level with the range.
• Painting FDM models clean and pristine. The layer lines show on flat armour panels. Weather it and it looks like it belongs in the wasteland.
• Skipping terrain. Ruined buildings and vehicles are a big part of the game and the best FDM print targets in the whole range.

This skirmish game uses the same 32mm heroic scale as the main sci-fi epic game. Every operative you print is fully usable in a standard army at the same base size, and vice versa. The real difference is squad composition — the skirmish game fields individual specialists with custom loadouts, so each model carries more personality than a rank-and-file trooper.

Fewer models means you can afford higher quality per model. A 0.2mm nozzle at 0.06mm layers gets you most of the way there on FDM — sniper scopes, cables, and grenades all read cleanly.

The boards for this game are terrain-heavy — ruined walls, walkways, and scatter dominate the table. This is pure FDM territory: 0.4mm nozzle at 0.1mm layers, and you can churn out a full board in a weekend. Print terrain for speed and the operatives for detail.

• Printing "28mm true scale" operatives at full size. They will sit short next to official 32mm models — use the 114.3% step.
• A 0.4mm nozzle on specialist faces. These are character models. Use a 0.2mm nozzle.
• Forgetting your operatives double as a main-game force. Match the scale you play in both games or you will reprint everything.

This game uses the same 32mm heroic scale as the main sci-fi epic game. Gangers, hangers-on, and hired guns all sit at 32mm. The size differences you see between gangs — some are massive brutes, others are lean, still more are tech-heavy — are design choices, not scale drift. All of them share the same eye-level reference.

Every ganger is a character — gang campaigns build stories around individual models. I print gangers at 0.2mm nozzle and 0.06mm layers so the faces read. The models have distinctive silhouettes and a lot of small gear detail that FDM softens.

This is a vertical game. Industrial platforms, pipe networks, and walkways dominate the board — and you need a lot of it. This is where FDM shines: 0.4mm nozzle at 0.1mm layers and you can build out a multi-level board in reasonable time. FDM for the board, FDM for the gangers at 0.06mm — that's the split I use.

• Printing different gangs at different scales. The whole game lives in the underhive together — keep every gang at 32mm.
• FDM for the gangers. The gear and faces are the selling point — give them the 0.2mm nozzle.
• Underestimating terrain volume. The board is half the game and eats plastic by the plateful. Budget for it.

This game uses the same 32mm heroic scale as the modern fantasy game, and the models are fully interchangeable at the same base size. The warband format means you need a fraction of the models of a full army — a dozen fighters per warband is typical. That makes it an excellent entry point for 3D printing a complete collection.

Warband characters print well on FDM at 0.2mm nozzle and 0.06mm layers. Rank-and-file fighters tolerate a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.08mm layers. Since the model count is low, running everything at the fine settings is affordable — I usually split the difference and fine-print the leaders only.

The boards are terrain-heavy and dramatic — ruined temples, ritual shrines, and rocky outcrops are as much a part of the game as the fighters. All of it is excellent FDM territory at 0.4mm nozzle and 0.1mm layers. Build the battlefield on FDM at 0.1mm layers and the warband at 0.06mm.

• Mixing 28mm classic models with 32mm warband fighters. In a small skirmish game the size gap reads fast. Keep the warband in one lane.
• Scaling by bounding box. Dynamic poses with sweeping weapons inflate the box. Measure foot to eye.
• Over-engineering rank-and-file prints. The best quality-per-model ratio is on leaders and champions, not the chaff.

The 35mm designation is an eye-level measurement. An armoured trooper's eyes sit 35.7mm above the base, and the full miniature reaches about 40mm to the top of the helmet. That works out to roughly 1:47 scale on a 1678mm eye-height reference — and it is why common 1:48 sci-fi model kits sit so close to the range.

The takeaway: measure to the eyes in your slicer. If you measure to the top of the helmet you will undersize every proxy.

Most third-party mass-battle proxies are sculpted at 32mm heroic. Print those at 109.4% and lock uniform scaling so the proportions stay intact.

The jump from classic 28mm systems into the 35mm lane is bigger than it looks on paper: 125.0% up from 28mm, or 80.0% down if you are scaling 35mm STLs for a 28mm game. Either way, the models end up clearly different in bulk, not just height.

Armoured trooper plate is made of smooth, unbroken panels — exactly the surface where FDM layer lines show. I print infantry at 0.06mm layers or finer, and walker-style vehicles at 0.1mm. When I scale a proxy, I enable the chain-link lock in my slicer so the ratio stays uniform across all three axes.

• Measuring to the top of the helmet. This is an eye-level scale — add the helmet and you undersize every print.
• Mixing this scale with the 40mm sci-fi skirmish scale. The 40mm skirmish game measures taller. If you want a model to stand with one, the validated step is 114.3% (35mm → 40mm), and even then the bulk reads differently.
• Trusting a "32mm" label on a proxy. Verify the eye-level height in the slicer before committing to a long print.

The characters in this game look like realistic humans at 35mm — heads and hands are proportioned naturally, not enlarged for readability like a heroic miniature. Powerhouse characters come across as bigger because they are on larger bases and sculpted bulkier, not because the scale changes. This is the key difference from 32mm heroic.

Two validated steps out of the superhero lane are worth knowing: 114.3% takes a 35mm model up to the 40mm skirmish scale, and 214.3% pushes a favourite hero into display territory for the cabinet.

The characters have dynamic poses — capes, energy effects, and floating heroes. I print character models with a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.06mm layers. The larger scale means fewer visible layer lines at standard settings than a 28mm mini, and terrain like cars and rubble prints great on FDM at 0.1mm layers.

• Using 32mm heroic STLs at full size. Next to true-scale 35mm characters, a heroic 32mm proxy reads noticeably smaller and bulkier.
• Scaling by bounding box. Capes and energy trails inflate the bounding box — measure foot to eye, ignore the dramatic bits.
• Over-printing terrain. The game needs scatter, but rank-and-file thugs on the board read fine at 0.1mm layers. Spend the fine-layer budget on named characters.

This game is 35mm scale, the same as the 35mm sci-fi mass-battle game. The miniatures use more realistic proportions than heroic 32mm, and they stand noticeably taller next to heroic models. The publisher built the range for rank-and-file mass battle with an alternating activation twist, so the 35mm presence is part of the army identity.

If you are mixing this game with a 32mm game, scale its models down at 91.4% to match.

Bringing proxies down to the classic 28mm lane is a 80.0% step. It is a large drop, so I check the proportions after scaling — realistic 35mm sculpts hold their detail well, but armor trim and faces need a re-look at the smaller size.

The 35mm scale gives you more canvas for detail than 32mm. I print characters and unit champions at 0.2mm nozzle and 0.06mm layers, rank-and-file troops at 0.4mm nozzle and 0.08mm, and large monsters and cavalry at 0.1mm — the bigger scale means fewer visible layer lines even at moderate settings.

• Scaling this range down to 32mm. You lose the range's presence next to its peers. If it must mix, accept the visible step at 91.4%.
• Mixing with 32mm modern fantasy and wondering why the 35mm models look big. It is. The lane is 35mm.
• Measuring to the top of a helmet. Eye level is the reference — helmeted rank-and-file make this easy to get wrong.

The publisher chose 40mm for this game so painters get large, smooth surfaces for blending and highlighting — a real departure from the smaller scales used in the 35mm mass-battle and superhero lanes. Character models measure roughly 42.75mm in total height. The tradeoff is real: bigger scale means more filament per model, so I factor material cost before I commit to a full squad.

Bringing a classic 28mm STL all the way up to 40mm is a 142.9% step. That is a large enough jump that I check the model's proportions after scaling — fine detail like hair strands and thin sabers scale up well, but anything sculpted with exaggerated heroic features can start to look cartoonish at this size.

The range's big smooth surfaces reward fine layer heights — 0.04-0.06mm with a 0.2mm nozzle for the best finish. 0.08mm is acceptable for the characters and the terrain pieces. I orient helmets and faces carefully so support marks never land on visible panels.

• Treating 40mm as 35mm. The numbers are close enough that a 35mm proxy printed at full size looks noticeably small next to official 40mm sculpts.
• Scaling 35mm proxies down instead of up. If you own 35mm STLs and want the 40mm game, the direction is 114.3% up, not down.
• Measuring to the top of a hood or helmet. Eye level is the reference. Hooded characters make this mistake easy to make.

This game is 1:27 ratio scale, used across every ship in the game — no infantry at all. For a human-sized reference that works out to roughly 59.3mm eye level and 64.8mm to the top of the head. Ships range from a small fighter you can hold in your palm to a spacecraft that fills most of the table, so the math stays clean but the print sizes swing wildly.

1:27 ships are large enough for FDM to handle detail well. I use a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.08mm layers for cockpit glass, panel lines, and engine details, and a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.12mm layers for large ships when speed matters. The hulls are smooth and show layer lines easily, so print at the finest layer height you have patience for, and orient engines and cockpits upward to keep supports on hidden undersides.

There is no validated 1:27-to-1:35 pair in the matrix, so when I scale a die-cast ship kit (1:48) I use the 137.1% reference step and verify against an official ship model.

The best reference is an official ship on your shelf. Measure its hull length with calipers and scale your printed ship to match — the labels on ship STLs vary as much as any other range. Before you slice a big transport or cruiser, check the bed dimensions: these prints can be wide as well as long.

• Treating the scale like an infantry scale. This game is 1:27 ship ratio — the 28mm/32mm conventions do not apply.
• Scaling every ship to the same length. Weight and class differences are part of the game's balance. Match each hull to its official model.
• Forgetting the bed on large ships. The big ships are wide prints. Check bed orientation before slicing.

The game uses modified die-cast cars — toy cars run around 1:64 in real terms, and the game maps them to 1:56 so they sit naturally with 28mm infantry. The game uses template-based movement rather than measuring tape, so exact vehicle scale matters less than it does in a measuring game.

The 1:56 mapping means 28mm infantry and 1:56 vehicles share the same table without looking off. The 3D printing playground is the kitbash gear: weapon mounts, roll cages, armor plates, spike strips, and terrain scatter all print beautifully and bolt onto the die-cast cars.

Weapon mounts and spikes are small and get handled constantly, so I print accessories at 0.2mm nozzle and 0.06mm layers with plenty of perimeters so they survive the game. Terrain scatter is a FDM job at 0.1mm layers. The game rewards creative kitbashing over precision painting, so print liberally.

• Treating every die-cast car as exactly 1:56. Toy cars vary. Check the car against your 28mm infantry before you build around it.
• Scaling infantry to the car instead of 28mm. The 1:56 mapping is the convention — infantry stay at 28mm.
• Printing the armor plates in brittle PLA. Parts that glue to die-cast bodies take knocks. PETG holds up better.